Omega’s new Speedmaster is the latest to take advantage of Vintage Vogue


It is inevitable that the past casts a long shadow over something as inherently retro as the watch industry, the very existence of which today could be seen as anachronistic, and in which many of the most important historical designs have never disappeared. Patek Phillipe’s Nautilus, for example, a watch currently so hot that steel versions with a retail price of £ 26,870 ($ 36,512) are priced at $ 100,000 more than that, has a virtually unchanged design since 1974; the Calatrava watch of the same brand dates from 1932.

On the other hand, a booming vintage market, the proliferation of scholarships and awareness among online communities and a continuing desire for retro that is generating new versions of everything from old school game consoles and analog synthesizers to classic cars recreated to the last engine. rivet, creates an increasingly rich landscape for brands to loot files. As evidenced by the following retro models.

Omega Speedmaster 321 Canopus Gold

Omega Speedmaster 321

Photography: Omega

Most people know the Speedmaster as the watch that went to the moon with NASA astronauts, but it began its life as a motor sports wristwatch in 1957. This version dates back to original model of 1957, although in a superdeluxe format: the box is in Canopus. gold (Omega’s especially bright white gold alloy) instead of steel, and the dial is cut into black onyx.

But in this case, the real vintage game is the movement (the mechanical “engine” that powers the clock) inside. Three years ago, Omega returned to production (extremely limited) a manual return movement that it had last manufactured in 1969, the caliber 321, reserving a special workshop in its high-tech factory for the manual assembly of the old school.

The 321 caliber propelled the Speedmasters used by Apollo astronauts in the 1960s and early 1970s (including landings on the moon) and occupies a special place of affection among enthusiasts and collectors. This is only the third modern watch to contain it: retro on the outside, even more on the inside, but with a stunning modern price tag of $ 81,000. A glimmer of hope is that if we had the persuasion of betting, we would put money into Omega at some point by launching a more affordable steel version of this piece.

Zenith Chronomaster Original

Zenith Chronomaster Original

Photography: Zenith

Unlike the Omega 321 caliber, Zenith’s historic chronograph movement, El Primero, never went out of production: introduced in 1969, it was the first automatic chronograph (a chronograph watch) and has been the backbone of Zenith watchmaking. since. It was also used by Rolex in the 1990s. Today’s Primero is a completely modern engine, but Zenith has been playing with its vintage origins with a number of retro-inspired models.



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